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She was the third of the seven children born to Annasaheb and Shantabai Rajopadhye. Athaiya worked across genres, including romance, period and thriller. Bhanu Athaiya just can't stop talking about what she loves best -- dressing up the stars. Among the historical figures she dressed up in biopics were MK Gandhi and BR Ambedkar. Gunga Jumna (1961), directed by Nitin Bose and ghost-directed by lead actor Dilip Kumar, was set in rural Uttar Pradesh. She worked at a time when the chief requirement was to make heroines look glamorous and desirable. The Progressive Artists’ Group had been formed around the time. She was the first Indian to win an Oscar, for Richard Attenborough’s biopic Gandhi (1982). India's first ever Oscar winner, costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, has died at the age of 91. In Search of Gandhi, Richard Attenborough’s account of the making of the Mahatma Gandhi biopic, attributed “…the veracity of the period clothes worn both by the huge crowds and the principal actors” to Athaiya’s “eagle eye”. Athaiya travelled to Mumbai as a teenager to learn painting at the JJ School of Art. “Before I entered the scene, things worked very differently,” she explained in an interview with Rediff.com in 2010. “What one saw in the film industry was that the director and set designer would put their heads together and call in a tailor. However, unknown to many, the first Indian to ever receive an Oscar had been Bhanu Athaiya, a costume designer, way back in 1983 for the movie Gandhi, Lord Richard Attenborough’s magnum opus. “In Waqt, this loose salwar was traded in for the tighter churidar, whilst the kameez boasted a tight cut and was above the knee in length – almost like a form-fitting dress…. Annasaheb Rajopadhye even co-directed a mythological, Mohini, in 1940. She had been diagnosed with meningioma in 2012 but had continued to work; her last costume design was for the Marathi film … While Athaiya was the first Indian to get an Oscar, she was associated with another production that made it to the shortlist of entries in the Foreign Language category. Bhanu Athaiya at the Oscars in 1983 Her almost five-decade-long career in the movies has been well-chronicled and inspired several talents who came later. For Reshma Aur Shera (1971), Athaiya visited Pochina in Rajasthan, the location of the story about star-crossed lovers, and “collected detailed information on every aspect of life in that village in order to conceive the look of the costumes”, she wrote. Athaiya had worked on more than 100 movies since the 1950s with noted filmmakers such as Guru Dutt, Yash Chopra and Raj Kapoor. NEW DELHI: India’s first ever Oscar winner, costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, has died at the age of 91. Her success as a designer soon led to her switching career paths. Bhanu Athaiya (née Annasaheb Rajopadhye; 28 April 1929 – 15 October 2020) was an Indian costume designer. [15], Black and White / Color separate (1948–1956, 1959–1966), National Film Award for Best Costume Design, The Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, "Oscar-winning costume designer Bhanu Athaiya passes away", "Bhanu Athaiya - India's first Oscar winner walks down memory lane", "From dandy to Dandi, it was a long journey", "Bhanu Athaiya, India's first Oscar winner, dies age 91", "Bhanu Athaiya, India's First Oscar Winner for 'Gandhi,' Dies at 91", "Veteran costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, India's first Oscar winner, dies at 91", "The Art of Costume Design, by Bhanu Rajopadhye Athaiya", "No one will fight China to make a stand for Tibet", April 2010&pubname=Times+of+India+-+Mumbai&edname=&articleid=Ar01307&publabel=TOI "Athaiya meets Dalai Lama", "First Indian to win an Oscar, Bhanu Athaiya wants to return her award", "Bhanu Athaiya returns Oscar fearing theft", "The 55th Academy Awards (1983) Nominees and Winners", Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, British Academy of Film and Television Arts, "Filmfare: 'Jodha...' bags 5, Priyanka, Hrithik shine", "NGO to honour Bhanu Athaiya with Lifetime Achievement award", "Bhanu Athaiya movies and filmography - Cinestaan.com", https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Bhanu_Athaiya&oldid=996120353, Best Costume Design Academy Award winners, Best Costume Design National Film Award winners, Sir Jamsetjee Jeejebhoy School of Art alumni, All Wikipedia articles written in Indian English, Wikipedia articles with WORLDCATID identifiers, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, This page was last edited on 24 December 2020, at 17:19. The nuances that Athaiya wove into the costumes enhanced characterisation. The Lycra-legging-style churidar, which you now find in department stores such as Westside and Lifestyle, can be traced back to this look.”. Athaiya was initially intimidated by the production: “The stark look of Gandhi’s dhoti was frightening in comparison to the razzle-dazzle of Hindi cinema,” she wrote in her memoir. She was the first Indian to receive the very prestigious Oscars award. For the movie’s popular song Zindagi Ittefaq Hain, Mumtaz was squeezed into figure-hugging dresses with slits that conveyed her character’s sensuality. Once again, Athaiya visited the location, in Bhuj in Gujarat, for inspiration. She is known for her work on Lagaan: Once Upon a Time in India (2001), Gandhi (1982) and Swades (2004). Athaiya began designing individual pieces for films in 1953, including an outfit for Nargis for a song in Ek Tha Raja Ek Thi Rani, which began production in the late 1950s. Athaiya shared the honour with her British collaborator John Mollo. Costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, who won the first Academy Award for India, has died at the age of 91. The big league beckoned when Nargis introduced Athaiya to Raj Kapoor. Athaiya based her costumes on the wall paintings at the Ajanta caves in Aurangabad. Costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, India’s first Oscar winner, passed away at her home in Mumbai on October 15 after a prolonged illness at the age of 91. In Yash Chopra’s Aadmi Aur Insaan (1969), Athaiya threw in a scarf for the heroine Mumtaz that served as “a prop with which to exude the aura of a femme fatale”, observed Sujata Assomull in 100 Iconic Bollywood Costumes (Roli Books, 2019). Ashutosh Gowariker’s period drama Lagaan (2001), about a cricket match waged between Indian villagers and British colonisers, is among Athaiya’s most significant projects. Athaiya credited her father with being “her guiding light”. in 1956,[4] and followed it up with other Guru Dutt films such as Pyaasa (1957), Chaudhvin Ka Chand (1960) and Sahib Bibi Aur Ghulam (1962). Athaiya could recreate mundane reality as deftly as she could conjure up oopmh. Costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, who became the first Indian to win an Oscar, is no more. Athaiya is survived by her daughter, Radhika Gupta. She was a total backroom player, for … Credit: Michael Montfort/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images. Athaiya's father, Annasaheb was a painter. She was married to Satyendra Athaiya… [1], Athaiya died on 15 October 2020 from complications of brain cancer at a medical center in South Mumbai, aged 91. “I was advised by my senior artist friends to continue painting, as I definitely had the talent to make it in the world of art,” Athaiya wrote. The film’s hero, Sunil Dutt, who played the ruler of Magadh, was given a “classical dhoti drape” in “plain and pleated silk” with a silver belt around his waist to convey his royal status. If the film’s heroine, Vyjayanthimala, looked as though she had stepped out of a fresco, the effect was intended. “I wanted to do full justice to Mumtaz’s attractive and free spirit,” Athaiya wrote in her memoir The Art of Costume Design (HarperCollins India, 2010). She had been ailing for several years. Bhanu Athaiya, costume designer and India’s first Oscar winner passed away on the morning of October 15, 2020. Mumtaz wore the ensemble in the song Aaj Kal Tere Mere Pyaar Ke Charche from Bhappi Sonie’s Brahmachari (1969). At 24, Bhanu Athaiya (then Rajopadhye), had already begun to make an impression in the circuit. The design is an example of both imagination and expediency – Mumtaz needed to freely wriggle her hips and match steps with co-star Shammi Kapoor for the vigorously choreographed track. Winner of an Oscar award, the pride of our country, yet so very humble. I am very happy that my Oscar has gone to the right place,” she told the news agency PTI at the time. “The Handloom House had opened a huge showroom on Mahatma Gandhi Road in Mumbai… I came across a range of village prints and saris here, which were extremely authentic.”. image copyrightGetty Images image captionDirector Richard Attenborough asked Bhanu Athaiya to work on the Oscar-winning film about Mahatma Gandhi Celebrated Bollywood costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, India’s first Oscar winner, has died at the age of 91, her family says. She was 91. Bhanu Athaiya, Costume Designer: Lagaan: Once Upon a Time in India. [14] On 15 December 2012, it was confirmed that the trophy had been returned to The Academy. Her last major project was the television series Mahabharat in 2013. Apart from Oscars, Bhanu Athaiya also won two National Film Awards in 1991 and 2002. Athaiya’s contribution to Indian modernist art was commemorated by the show The Progressive Revolution: Modern Art for a New India at the Asia Society Museum in New York City in 2018. Athaiya had little time to regret her choice. Her most well-regarded films, which sent thousands of women viewers scurrying to their tailors for knock-offs of the clothes the stars had worn on screen, included Amrapali, Waqt, Brahmachari, Teesri Manzil, Guide, Reshma Aur Shera, 1942: A Love Story, Lagaan and Swades. Athaiya forged a long connection with Raj Kapoor, designing the costumes for Sangam (1964), Mera Naam Joker (1970), Satyam Shivam Sundaram (1978), Prem Rog (1982) and Ram Teri Ganga Maili (1985). From Mumtaz’s tightly draped, flaming orange sari in Brahmachari to Sridevi’s styling in Chandni, Bhanu Athaiya crafted some of Indian cinema’s most iconic looks.India’s first-ever Oscar honoree — she won the Academy Award for Best Costume Design for Richard Attenborough's Gandhi (1982), along with John Mollo — Athaiya … The Modern and the Secular in Indian Art that although “Rajopadhye’s career as an artist did not last long –she was quickly seduced by the movie industry – two of her paintings from the 1953 exhibition suggest that she shared stylistic commonalities with Husain and Gaitonde early in their careers, being similarly inspired by seventeenth-century Pahari miniatures”. Academy Award-winning costume designer Bhanu Athaiya passed away on October 15, 2020, at the age of 91. [12][13], On 23 February 2012, it was reported that Athaiya wished to return her Academy Award to The Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences because she felt that her family will not be able to take care of the trophy after her demise. When colour replaced black and white in Hindi cinema, Athaiya began tapping into her sensitivity to the distinctive Indian palette and her knowledge of local craft and weaving traditions. Many fans don’t remember screen icons only for their performances. Being an impeccable costume designer, she had received th She was 91. Bhanu Athaiya, the costume designer who became the first Indian to win an Oscar, for Richard Attenborough’s “Gandhi” (1982), died at her home in Mumbai Thursday after a prolonged illness. “The salwar kameez was starting to grow in popularity in movies as the college girl’s choice of clothing,” Assomull observes in 100 Iconic Bollywood Costumes. Bhanu Athaiya, the costume designer of the major films and the only Indian designer, who won an Oscar for the costumes, passed away in Mumbai at the age of 91. They can also recall precisely what they were wearing in a song or a scene – and that extra layer of memory is provided by the costume designer. [11] On 13 January 2013, Athaiya presented a copy of the book to the Dalai Lama. “Thank you, Sir Richard Attenborough, for focusing world attention on India.”. For his Shree 420 (1955), Athaiya worked on the costumes worn by second lead Nadira. “The way I was made to look, it was meant to be an all-illusion; so all the costumes were in very thin fabric in skin colour,” Vyjayanthimala wrote in her autobiography Bonding... A Memoir (Stellar Publishers, 2007). 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Athaiya’s teachers at JJ School of Art included VS Gaitonde, a member of the Progressive Artists’ Group. This was the first time that “actual Indian handlooms and handicrafts were used” in a movie, Athaiya said in her memoir. I would comb the museums and libraries in Delhi to gather all my reference material.” The costumes for Gandhi, played by Ben Kingsley, mirror his transformation from urbane barrister into political fakir and mesh seamlessly with the production design and cinematography. Her outfits combined Indian and Western styles and were worn by urban as well as rural characters. Bhanu Athaiya has been an important name in pioneering Indian cinema. Bhanu Athaiya (1929-2020): India’s first Oscar winner, creator of hit Bollywood moments and costumes for 60 years Bhanu Athaiya passed away in the early hours of Thursday in Mumbai. Gupta told the news agency PTI, “Eight years ago, she was diagnosed with a tumour in her brain. She won a National Film Award for her costumes. 'The Last Color' review: Celebrity chef Vikas Khanna's film has got its heart at the right place The directors with whom Athaiya worked reads like a Who’s Who of Indian cinema – Raj Kapoor, Guru Dutt, BR Chopra, Yash Chopra, Vijay Anand, Raj Khosla, Ashutosh Gowariker, Jabbar Patel and Vidhu Vinod Chopra. Credit: Michael Montfort/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images. Directed by Sunil Dutt and starring him and Waheeda Rehman, Reshma Aur Shera was a career high for Athaiya on account of the freedom she was given to implement her vision. She ended up splitting responsibilities with John Mollo, and handled all the Indian costumes. Their British counterparts in pale pastels British collaborator John Mollo 2013, Athaiya dressed up Shah Rukh Khan casual. At the JJ School of Art Bhuj in Gujarat, for focusing world attention India.”. Bhanu lent that authenticity.” Priyanka Chopra and Lata Mangeshkar offered condolence while her! 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